For your Kindle

If you want the whole saga, I recommend Vow to Sophia, Star Marine, Fighter Queen

Dynamixel AX-12 servos are moving the thing, special parts were made to get these to fit the MicroRax.

The brain is an Arbotix Robot Controller, which is like an Arduino, with more beef.

AX-12 servo mounted to MicroRAX

I’ve been playing around with the Dynamixel AX-12 servo. It’s a nice little servo that has a variety of attachment brackets that allow you to build many cool things.  The problem is I want to mount the servo onto a frame built from MicroRAX. The brackets that come with the servo are too small for this, when it comes to screw hole size.

Original Bracket - No fit

Luckily we live in a day and age where a solution to this problem has an easy fix.  Since the cad file for these brackets are freely available online, I was able to remodel the screw holes to the size I want, then I sent it off to Shapeways.com where it will be fabricated in a 3D printer and shipped to me.

Shapeways Materials

I ordered it in three different materials to see which works the best.  The results are very satisfying, the bracket fits on the servo perfectly and mounts nice and tight on the MicroRAX beam.

Shapeways Bracket, and Original Bracket

Problem solved!  If anyone has a similar need, here are the resources.

Order the bracket at Shapeways.com

Dynamixel Servos

MircoRAX

OBJ File of Bracket  (Right Click and Save)

I opened up the TV and had a look at the power supply.  I saw three little 10v 1000uF capacitors swollen and leaking.

I ordered some new capacitors, and bought a hotter soldering iron (the solder on this board doesn’t melt easy)

Swollen Capacitors

Replaced the capacitors and the TV turned on without the clicks!

There is a risk of electric shock, the board has  a “HOT” and “COLD” section,  I assume the hot section should be avoided.  There’s a pair of scary looking 450v Capacitors that were making me nervous.

These two scared me

If you plan on doing this yourself, do a search on the topic, there is a lot of info out there, and make sure your replacing with the correct components.

There is a lot of info out there regarding this issue, take a look

YouTube videos

Samsung LCD TV Power up problem

MotorShield on Arduino

DC Brushed Motor

Playstation Thumbsticks

Thanks Ian!

The i-Phone Robot got mentioned on Net @ Night, a podcast with Amber MacArthur and Leo Laporte !

Check out the episode here http://twit.tv/natn162 or on i-tunes
They talk about this project at the end of the podcast, I’m thrilled!

The setup is pretty much the same as the other robots that play these kinds of games.

the setup

Light sensors are used to read the falling notes, I’m using ambient light sensors from Sparkfun.  They are small and easy to setup. (The iphone brightness has to be set to Max)

The light sensor sends data to an Arduino, which is waiting for a spike in the data. This means something bright has passed in front of the sensor.  I’m using an Arduino Mega, which is overkill for this project, but it does look really cool with those WingShields on it.

Under belly of the beast

The Arduino runs the sensor data through some averaging filters, and sets a threshold for on and off.  This could also be done through hardware, look up Hysteresis and Schmitt trigger.  If the sensor data becomes higher than the on threshold, the Arduino reads that as a note, and tells the servo to push the screen.  The servo will not release its touch of the screen until the sensor data drops below the off threshold.  The on and off threshold have some distance between each other to deal with bouncy noise.

Servos acting like little fingers

The iPhone touch screen isn’t like most PDAs.  It uses a capacitive touch screen.  More info about that HERE.  It would seem that the iPhone is looking for a finger sized touch, from living flesh.  According to the link, the screen actually looks for changes in electrical current.

I had some conductive foam laying around, its usually used for shipping sensitive electronics.  If I put my finger behind the foam and pressed on the iphone screen, it works.  If I used something non conductive, like a plastic pen, the foam would do nothing to the screen.  My solution to this was to put thin copper wires into the foam (I also used these wires to attach the foam to the servos) the other end of the wires were wrapped around the handle of an exacto knife.  When the Robot is playing the game I touch the handle of the exacto and the robot fingers are able to press the screen.  Another solution was to run all the wires into the Arduinos ground pin, but it had mixed results (not all wires were making contact)

Insert iPhone into robots pelican grips

Add all of the above together into a modified Pelican case, with a lot of hot glue (non glittery) and you have a robot that will gladly beat all your difficult songs, sit back and sip some fine tea.

The performance of this robot increases with the correct positioning of the servos, and the distance you set them to move in the code.  You may notice in my video that the right most servo had a hard time hitting its notes, it’s been glued too far south of the note position, something I may correct later.  I think it would be cool to package all of this together as a portable unit, with an Mini Arduino running the show.

Here is the code I made for the Arduino, it’s a modified version of my other project.  If you want to make your own, you will have to tweak the sensor threshold and servo settings to fit your setup.

Iphone_Rockband.pde

I wanted to make a big one, so I used a Pelican case instead of an Altoid tin, with a large computer case fan and a 12v DC power adapter instead of two 9v.

Large Fume Extractor

Easy to open

It works!

It works pretty well, I no longer smell the solder.  The airflow isn’t as strong as I would like it to be.   It may need a better filter, or MORE POWER!

You can find the ingredients to make an Altoid tin version here:  How to:  Candy tin fume extractor

Ninja Elves

http://abc.go.com/shows/prep-and-landing

Before watching the trailer, you have to sit through an ad…
That’s right, a commercial for a commercial.